Networking — 5 ½ Hrs
Owned by Les Schubert
Called Gilbert Metal Products 626 448-3251 about brass parts for headlight doors and an oil side lamp font. Left a message.
E&J headlamp rims and side lamp font. Available at Lang’s 800-872-7871. The rims are unpolished. Everyone else is out of stock.
Spoke with Lisa at Classtique Upholstery 800 208-9032 about a kit for the top and samples of upholstery materials. She will send me samples. Mike is at a show and if I want detailed information I need to speak with him. lisah@classtiqueupholstery.commike@classtiqueupholstery.com
I spoke with Mike Szuch at Aristocrat Upholstery and will discuss the upholstery when the samples arrive
Called The Brassworks 805 239-2501 about ordering a radiator. They are estimating 12-14 weeks to build the rad. They accept bank drafts but charge an additional $159.30 for foreign credit cards. She wasn’t sure if there is an extra charge for Paypal. The rad will include the acetylene tube at the back of the radiator. I will ask them not to stamp Made in USA on the front.
The dents on the current radiator can’t be easily fixed and given the age the cooling properties are suspect. The new radiator will be built to 1913 specs except that inside it will use flat tubes which improve cooling. I will ask then to remove the “made in USA stamp from the front.
Snyders (888) 262-5712 may have 30 × 3 ½ tires. Langs, Coker and Summit are out of stock. Snyder’s price is $270 each. Smooth tires (no tread) were common in 1913. They don't wear well and have poor traction. Tires with NON SKID written in the tread were also common in the mid teens. The NON SKID tread is a novelty and a real eye catcher, but these tires are about double the price of regular tread. Wards Riverside tires are available. I like the idea of Coker Excelsior tires because they are a bit narrower and will be more period correct, but they are also currently out of stock. I will hold out for Firestone regular tread tires. Flaps and tubes with metal stems.
Brakes — even when they are new and tuned the transmission and hand brake are inadequate. There are three options. Sure Stop, modern disk brakes, Rocky Mountain brakes and AC brakes. The disk brakes perform the best but the are out of character. Rocky’s don't work going backwards. AC brakes are period correct and OK. They are hard to find. I have a lead on a set near Calgary.
Photos below show disk brake, AC brake behind Buffalo Wire Wheel, AC brake
Wheels — The spokes on a couple of wheels are a bit loose; not a big problem but they will loosen up more when the car is driven. The bigger problem is that the wood is old and rough. I am concerned about safety and the cost involved in sanding, filling, priming and painting the spoke would be better spent on new wheels. The wheelwright we have used for years retired. The new guy who bought is equipment is still setting it up and hasn't yet built a wheel. A better alternative is to install Buffalo Wire Wheels. They are rare, desirable and hard to find. I have heard that I set I once owned is for sale in Colfax IA. I will follow up. I spoke with a friend in Montana but he recently sold his set. I have another lead here in Canada. I will also search for another wheelwright.
Paint Color — spoke with John Steele in Manhattan, MT. He will get me the correct PPG paint code for the 1913 Ford Touring.
I received the paint codes. I believe the color is too light for a 1913 Ford. I will meet with the paint people at Napa CMax. This color may work —> 1998 Mercedes-Benz models featured "Midnight Blue" (paint code 904/5904) non-metallic navy.
Ignition Switch — in stock at Snyder’s. I will order a new switch. The coil box is original. With the original label inside.
Leaf Springs — The springs that are on the car are “clipped end” springs from a later Model T. I have source a good tapered end rear spring and have feelers out for a tapered front spring. The tapered end spring look much nicer. They were discontinued because they are more difficult to to manufacture.
Under Seat Doors — currently plywood. It would be nice to reproduce these from solid wood. This would be fairly straight forward if when I remove the body from the chassis for body work and paint. https://modeltfordfix.com/fabricating-an-under-seat-gas-tank-door-for-your-1909-1916-model-t-ford/
Horn — The horn needs a new bulb and tube. I will order from Snyders.
